All things korea

Look, I'm not usually one for museums. My attention span is roughly equivalent to a squirrel on a triple espresso shot, and anything that requires me to stand still and read tiny plaques for more than thirty seconds usually results in me either looking for the nearest exit or wondering if the gift shop sells snacks. So, when someone told me I *had* to visit Gyeongju, the "museum without walls," my immediate internal monologue was a dramatic reenactment of a villain tying a damsel to a train track, except the villain was history and the damsel was my patience. But here's the thing about Korea: it has a way of surprising you. And Gyeongju? It doesn't just surprise you; it wallops you over the head with ancient charm, dusts you off, and then probably offers you a rice cake. This isn't your average historical theme park. This is a place where ancient royalty decided, "You know what? I'm going to be buried right here, under a giant, grassy molehill, and ev...